Be Gone Holiday Hangovers

No- and low-alcohol spirits are making their mark with the sober-curious crowd and include a growing list of local options.
By / Photography By | December 14, 2020
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For Bob Huitema, a perpetual do-it-yourselfer who always has some kind of project on the go around the house, a cold drink at the end of the day used to be a reward and indulgence. That’s until he realized how much he loved cocktails but loathed the next-day hangovers that came with them. 

It’s a feeling many others can relate to. Though we will stick to small family circles and perhaps not imbibe as much as we traditionally may, we will still toast to 2020 and the year that was (or the year we’re trying to forget) and hope to feel good the next day.

Huitema, never one to leave a problem unsolved, started working on a solution to keep embracing his fondness of cocktails while ridding himself of the headache. In early 2018, he began his research and shortly after engaged Niagara College’s Research and Innovation division. The school is well known for its expertise in food, drink and distillate development. In late 2019, Sobrii, which means Sober in Latin, was bottled. 

Huitema is no stranger to the food and drink world, having spent time at Diageo, one of the world’s largest distillers. He’s one of many seeing the appeal of no- and low-alcohol products. It’s a beverage market sector that has seen steady growth in both sales and product offerings. 

Seedlip, the UK-based no-alcohol spirit, is widely seen as the harbinger of the movement. “When Seedlip launched five years ago, 99.9 per cent of bars, restaurants, hotels and retailers were not considering those not drinking alcohol,” says Ben Branson, Seedlip’s founder. 

“There were only a handful of sub-standard options, and the no- and low-alcohol category was in its infancy. Fast forward to today, there is an entire and exponentially growing category.”

Canadian entrepreneurs are taking this opportunity to serve the sober-curious crowd with local offerings. Sobrii is one of a few no- to low-alcohol products now made in Ontario, which also includes Niagara-based 18.8 vodka and gin.

“Lifestyles and behaviours are changing,” says Jakob Ripshtein, CEO of Fluid Assets, 18.8’s parent company. “There are far more people who are busy, working professionals, people who are taking their health and fitness seriously and those who want to be responsible when enjoying a night out with friends or colleagues.”

18.8 is a line of lower proof spirits, currently including vodka and gin. It registers at precisely 18.8 per cent ABV, a set of numbers chosen because they “connote positivity and good fortune in many cultures around the world,” Ripshtein explains.

“The ‘8’ in our branding was designed to look like the infinity symbol — a representation of seamless, continuous connection and the never-ending, boundless possibility of human existence.” 

He challenged their distiller to meet the 18.8 mark, starting with 100 per cent Canadian wheat, which follows the same initial process as any other distilled spirit. Though the exact process is confidential, Ripshtein says achieving the 18.8 per cent lies in the uniqueness of how water is added back in and how they leverage components of the distillation process without sacrificing nose and flavour profile.

Sobrii, distilled in Stratford, begins much the same way any other gin would, too. Botanicals are macerated and soaked in corn spirit, then distilled several times. The alcohol is removed using a proprietary process, and water is added as well. Huitema also adds a few extra ingredients like Canadian Ginseng and glycerin. The latter helps with texture and mouthfeel. Sobrii O gin clocks in at less than 0.5 per cent ABV.

In addition to engaging Niagara College, Huitema took his research internationally, travelling to the United Kingdom in 2019 to participate in some non-alcoholic festivals, where upwards of 60 manufacturers were featured. He brought home a suitcase full of product that raised some questions at customs, he recalls, laughing.

Huitema, much like Ripshtein, has a devoted health-conscious crowd, which makes up his biggest segment.

“We’re seeing that it’s people who want to consume less alcohol, not eliminate altogether, who are our biggest drivers,” he explains. “Demographic wise, it’s a bit all over the map, except for the very youthful who are taking on a non-alcoholic view.”

Just like the popularity of meatless burgers which targeted people who ate meat and not only vegetarians, no- to low-alcohol beverages aren’t just focusing on those who are sober, Huitema says. “10 years ago, you’d never think we could target steak lovers with veggie burgers.”

Both founders admit their products will never replace full-proof spirits. But they agree that drinks like Sobrii and 18.8 provide options.

“The most heartfelt reactions have been from people who would have skipped an event altogether or picked a drink they didn’t actually like due to fear of over-consuming,” says Ripshtein, whose resume includes previously held positions at Diageo Canada and Aphria. “These individuals are grateful that a new choice has been added to their experience.”

“This isn’t just a fad, we’re seeing it’s a long-term trend… this is sustainable,” says Huitema, adding that he views it as a conscious and permanent shift people are making to better their lives.

For the proud DIYer who grew up on a farm near Stratford, Sobrii is also about giving back and embracing his community. “My entire upbringing was about self-reliance, it’s where I came from, and it’s what I am,” Huitema says, who is currently working on expanding the Sobrii line.

“Staying local, making this in Canada and in Ontario, I want to build it into something we can be proud of, showcasing local talent, too.”

Giving back is also important to the founders of 18.8, who donated all sale profits from May and June this year to the Bartenders Benevolent Fund, which provides financial support to hospitality workers negatively impacted by the pandemic. 

Sobrii Gin
sobrii.ca | @sobrii0
Find it at: online at sobrii.ca, Cocktail Emporium, Pusateri’s, The Mercantile.

18.8 Vodka and Gin
fluidassets.ca
Find it at: LCBO

Seedlip
seedlipdrinks.com | @seedlipdrinks
Find it at: The Mercantile, City Canteen, Pusateri’s, Cocktail Emporium

RECIPES: 

SOBRII

Lo-Groni

1.5 ox Sobrii O Gin
¾ oz Campari
1 oz red vermouth
Orange Zest (for garnish)

In a mixing glass, fill with ice and add Sobrii, Campari and red vermouth Stir well and strain over one large ice cube. Garnish with orange zest.

Seedlip

Alternative Eggnog

2 ox Seedlip Spice 94
2 oz oat milk
1 oz coconut cream
½ oz date syrup
Pinch of cinnamon
1 drop of vanilla extract

Add all ingredients to a blender and pulse until frothy. Serve cold or warm in a French wine glass. Garnish with freshly grated nutmeg.

18.8

Cranmerry

1.5 oz 18.8 Gin 
2 oz Cranberry juice 
2 oz Orange juice 
Ice 
Orange peel garnish
Optional: Frozen cranberries

Stir all ingredients in a lowball glass, and enjoy.

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